La Médina, une galerie à ciel ouvert

Sur la façade en bois de la petite maison à un étage, un regard fixe le passant. L’œil gauche est niché entre deux fenêtres grillagées ; le droit, à moitié dissimulé par une bâche qui traîne dans la rue. Le visage de l’enfant, de même que la petite boucle d’oreille qui pend à son oreille, sont bien visibles. La fresque a été peinte en 2015 sur l’une des plus vieilles maisons de la Médina par le collectif Sabotaje Al Montaje, qui réunit des grapheurs originaires des Canaries.

Collages de photographies, peintures murales, graffitis… Il suffit de déambuler dans le quartier pour profiter des dizaines d’œuvres plaquées sur les portes et les façades des maisons. Ici des femmes noires à la coiffure afro, aux robes tout droit sorties de l’époque de Louis XIV, s’apprêtent à monter dans un palanquin aux couleurs des cars rapides dakarois (Doline Legrand Diop, 2018) ; là un chat allongé attend paresseusement que des humains imprudents se fassent piéger par une souricière où les francs CFA tiennent lieu de fromage (Marto, 2016). « Mais depuis que le chat est là, il n’a encore attrapé personne », plaisante Mamadou Boye Diallo.

Des murs qui racontent une histoire

À 32 ans, ce Dakarois est le fondateur de l’association Yataal Art (« Élargir l’art »). Depuis sa création, en 2010, une centaine d’artistes de toutes nationalités sont venus peindre les murs du quartier. « Les fresques murales, elles sont d’abord pour les maisons elles-mêmes, explique Mamadou Boye Diallo. Pour rendre l’art accessible, il fallait bien le faire sortir des musées et des belles galeries, et l’amener jusqu’aux quartiers défavorisés. L’art que l’on défend est un art vivant. L’après-midi, les habitants sortent devant les fresques pour partager le thé, c’est devant ces œuvres que les gens baptisent leurs enfants, qu’ils se marient… Ce sont des murs qui racontent une histoire. »

En 1914, quand les colons décident d’installer leur administration sur le Plateau, ils déplacent (« déguerpissent », dirait-on aujourd’hui) les populations noires aux portes du centre-ville, donnant ainsi naissance à la Médina. Il s’agissait selon eux de prévenir une épidémie de peste. Foyer d’une population hétéroclite, le quartier verra naître des artistes iconiques tels que le chanteur Youssou N’Dour et le percussionniste Doudou N’Diaye Rose.

Dans une ville où la rue sert souvent de vitrine aux artistes, la Médina revendique sa spécificité. « À Dakar, le street art se pratique surtout le long des routes, sur des infrastructures publiques. Nous, c’est différent. On travaille sur d’anciennes maisons détériorées auxquelles on donne une seconde vie. Les artistes n’ont besoin d’aucune autorisation de la ville, juste celle des habitants de la maison sur laquelle ils travaillent, puisque c’est une propriété privée », revendique Mamadou Boye Diallo.

Bouche-à-oreille

L’un des artistes le plus représenté – et le plus connu – du quartier est aussi un enfant de la Médina. Toute la journée, Pape Diop peint, avec ce qu’il peut (café, huile de moteur, mégots de cigarettes) et sur tout ce qu’il trouve (murs, sols, morceaux de bois ou cartons). Son personnage de prédilection ? Serigne Touba [guide spirituel et fondateur du mouridisme]. Marginal pour certains, génie incompris pour d’autres, il a exposé ses œuvres en 2019 à l’Institut français de Dakar.

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